The depth perception also makes quite a difference. The side of your face can clearly be seen in a mirror to be the side of your face, but depending on lighting, the side of your face can look as if it’s part of the front of your face in a picture as you don’t have the depth perception. The result is that photos make you look fatter than your mirror image would.

Nope, but I trust the ones that lack the hardware for dialing home.

But generally I don’t buy devices unless I have reason to trust them.

As the other poster said, both Zigbee and Zwave devices do not talk to the Internet. They can’t even connect to your Wi-Fi anyway. They need to connect to a device that acts as a router but specifically for Zigbee or Zwave, usually called a Hub or Coordinator.

There’s many different hubs around. Many commercial ones do indeed connect directly to the WiFi and therefore internet. But nothing is stopping you from buying a USB Dongle Hub with open source firmware and plugging it into a Raspberry Pi, if you want to eliminate the potential spying.

The Zigbee and Zwave networks inherently cannot communicate with the Internet. So the only risk of spying is if you installed something in the Raspberry that spies on you.

Both Philips Hue and IKEA Trådfri and many other vendors simply use Zigbee, which means you can bring your own Hub and completely eliminate the risk of spying.

As a small follow up, new research seems to suggest that current EV batteries might last 40% longer than any predictions have expected, due to the real-world use of them causing very different wear on them than the heavy duty testing in labiratories:

https://lemm.ee/post/49902192

I have both bought and been given some of these “knockoff” sets, and while the resulting build. The resulting build is pretty, but fragile. The tolerances on the bricks are bad, to the point that some required a lot of force to join, and others are so loose that they can barely carry the weight of the bricks on top. I have also consistently found at least 1 brick that wasn’t molded fully, and was therefore useless, with no spares. The colors are also usually quite uneven. The instructions are usually fairly easy to follow. But the build methods are bad. I often see bricks stacked directly on top of other bricks, with no interlocking, resulting in whole walls being able to easily fall over.

The knockoff are fine if you don’t have the money to spend on Lego, but you really also get what you pay for.

deleted by creator

The DuckDuckGo search engine gets it’s results from the Bing search engine

Encryption is really really hard, and avoiding some form of sidechannel attack is much much harder.

Sure key exchange also isn’t trivial, but I would say that key exchange is significantly easier. Care to elaborate?

RSA doesn’t scale, so if the message is large then RSA becomes unwieldy. So most encryption methods that make use of RSA actually encrypt the data with a symmetric algorithm, and then just encrypt the key for the symmetric data using the RSA key.

But there is still way way way too many ways to implement crypto wrong, which can completely compromise the security of it.

Battery degradation is certainly a very valid question to ask. This isn’t leasing or renting, I got a loan at the bank, and purchased the car. So yeah, battery degradation is an issue, however to me battery degradation basically means that I would just have to charge more often.

All current figures I can find mention degradation between 0.5% and 3% per year. Taking the worst case of 3% and compounding it over 10 years, means my 77,4 kWh battery turns into a 57 kWh battery, that is a total of 73% of the original capacity, at 20 years this reduces to 54% of original capacity. At present I only use around 20-40% of my battery on an average day, which would mean that I would still be able to fulfill my daily driving needs. In the best case of 0.5% degradation, the total capacity would only have decreased to 73,6 kWh, 95% of the original capacity, or 90% after 20 years. The warranty on the battery ensures that the battery can’t lose more than 30% of its original capacity in the first 10 years, so it seems reasonable to think that Hyundai isn’t expecting the degradation to exceed 3%, and they likely have built in a good bit of margin into that warranty, as they obviously don’t want you to replace your battery free of charge.

It’s very important to understand what causes most of the battery degradation, though.

The main killer of batteries is heat. If the thermals of your battery isn’t managed well by the car your battery will degrade much much faster. This is why laptops and cellphone batteries don’t last very long. Most modern EVs has liquid cooling loops that keep the battery at the correct temperatures, both when driving and when charging. Many of the early EVs didn’t have this, and suffered for it. So many of the statistics about battery degradation are from the earlier EVs which didn’t manage temperatures well.

Charging to 100% wears the battery much more than charging to 80%, which in turn also wears more than charging to 70%. Depleting the battery and then charging to 80% again and again wears your battery more than staying between 40%-70%. Even better if you can keep your battery at a lower state of charge constantly, but that obviously means you have less range at your disposal. Charging faster also causes more wear. So with the right behaviour you can reduce your battery wear quite significantly. I have set my car up to only charge to 70% for normal days, and only increase the limit when I know I’m going on a long trip. I also almost exclusively charge at home, which means a nice and slow charge rate during the night when the outdoor temperatures are low. I only use more than 40% of the capacity between charges on very rare occasions.

My Ford Fiesta was 8 years when I sold it, and at 10 years it’s timing belt should be changed. Something that would cost about 1/3 of the market value of the car… And if the belt decides to give up before then, then I would have been looking at rebuilding the whole engine, which could easily be as expensive as the whole market value of the car. Besides that, there’s all the other bits in a combustion vehicle that needs maintenance, such as spark plugs, oil changes, transmissions, clutches, cylinder head gaskets, exhausts wearing trough. Even brake pads last longer as most of the braking is done by regenerative braking. EVs does however need the battery coolant changed, and does wear the tires quicker.

In the end battery degradation is a gamble that I have chosen to take. I personally think the benefits outweigh the risks, and even at 54% capacity after 20 years, the car would still be useful to me. I do however understand that this doesn’t work for everyone, and many others won’t be willing to take the same risk.

I wasn’t aware that both the VW and Renault wasn’t available in the US… That sucks. But yeah, the MSRP for EVs are generally quite a bit higher, but that goes for pretty much every size of car, but that is only a tiny bit of the whole picture. I also didn’t know the price disparity was that big in the US for the Mazda and Volvo… But when you are looking at EVs you really need to look at the service and fuel/electricity costs too.

I live in Denmark, so obviously my experience will be very different. I recently switched from a Ford Fiesta 2016 (5-door hatchback, gasoline, medium-high trim) to a Hyundai Ioniq 5 (fully electric, crossover SUV, top trim), and I drive about 30,000 km per year (~ 18600 miles). And when you factor in the cost of the car loan, the service subscription, the insurance, and fuel costs, then the much larger, and much more luxurious Hyundai Ioniq 5 comes out to costing me about the same per month.

I did all the math before we bought the Ioniq 5, but unfortunately don’t have all the numbers handy anymore. But the main factors are the MSRP cost and the fuel costs

Ford Fiesta 1.0 100 hp Titanium Fun (2016):

• Price 160,000 DKK (~ $22,690), Loan came out to 1790 DKK per month (~ $254)
• Gas costs per month ~ 2,200 DKK (~ $312)
• Sum per month 3,990 DKK (~ $565)

Hyundai Ioniq 5 Long Range Ultimate (2023):

• Price 405,000 DKK (~ $57,434), Loan comes out to 3559 DKK per month (~ $505)
• Electricity costs per month ~ 400 DKK (~ $57)
• Sum per month 3,959 DKK (~ $562)

So even though the cost was 2.5 times higher, it was about the same to own and drive. I have no idea how that math works out with gas and electricity prices in the US.

Damn, I didn’t know that Renault wasn’t in the US market…

• Renault Megane E-tech Electric
• VW ID.3
• Volvo EX30

And there’s quite a lot more brands with EVs in that size bracket coming out in the near future

This one terrifies me every time… When you pass a car going the opposite way, and it basically looks wike the steering wheel have a wig on… It’s always an old woman… Can they even see the road? Or are they navigating using the sky?

Dunning-Kruger is a hell of a drug…

The author of the article is clearly just confusing “encryption”, “cryptography” and “hashing”. Reading the full article makes it clear that the intention was to salt and hash the passwords, not encrypting them.

The OP made the argument that Zuckerberg wanted to know their passwords, such that if the users reused the same passwords elsewhere, then he would be able to log in there and check out their accounts.

For example he could have seen a profile he was interested in, nabbed their password and looked into their email.

Not that he wouldn’t have godmode on their Facebook account, and needed their password to access their account, because of course he could have just accessed those accounts without needing the password.

I have not heard this rumor before, though I wouldn’t be completely surprised if it was true.

In case of YouTube you can actually dump the link into VLC, and it will happily buffer the whole video while paused. This probably works with other sites, but I have only tested YouTube.

Alternatively you can of course just download the video with yt-dlp, and then play it locally

You might need some workarounds for it to work. I’m using Sway as my window manager, where the missing piece war the “for_window” bit on this page.

https://github.com/flameshot-org/flameshot/blob/master/docs/Sway and wlroots support.md

Depending on your desktop environment/window manager, you might need some different workarounds.

For me it captures all the screens and let’s me pick the region, even when crossing over two screens.

Which OS are you using? And if Linux, are you running Wayland or X?